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Getting started with lure fishing

How lures trigger strikes without live bait, the main lure types and what to buy first, basic retrieves, hook safety and dealing with snags.

📚 Fishing for beginners · 8/13· ⏱ About 5min read ·Information updated 2026-10-06

📋 Key facts

Principle
Movement triggers a predator's instinct to strike
First lure
Soft plastics on jig heads: cheap and forgiving
Key skill
Count the lure down to find the depth
Safety
Look behind before casting; hold fish with grips
Rules
Check official closed seasons and size limits

What makes lure fishing different

Lure fishing replaces live bait such as worms or shrimp with artificial baits made of rubber, wood or metal. A lure has no taste or smell to speak of, so it is up to you to reel and work the rod until it looks like an injured baitfish or a fleeing shrimp. That means far less sitting and waiting under a float and far more casting, retrieving and walking. You never have to rebait and your hands stay cleaner, but the trade-off is that you have to find the fish and the right depth yourself. The targets are mostly predatory species that eat other fish.

Target species and places

In the sea, anglers work lures from breakwaters and rocky shores for rockfish, flatfish, sea bass, mackerel and Spanish mackerel, and squid fishing with shrimp-shaped squid jigs is hugely popular. In fresh water, bass in reservoirs and rivers and predatory river fish such as mandarin fish are typical targets. Which fish are around, and when, varies a great deal by season and region, so the fastest start is to ask a nearby tackle shop what is biting right now and gear up for that one fish.

Start with light gear

A medium-length spinning rod rated for light lures and a small spinning reel will cover most shore-based lure fishing. Every rod lists a recommended lure weight range, so check that the lures you plan to use fall within it. You can start with an easy-to-handle monofilament line, or use thin, strong braided line for sensitivity, in which case you need to knot a leader to the end. If that knot is weak you will lose whole lures, so practise it at home first.

  • A light spinning rod and a small reel
  • Check the rod's lure weight rating
  • With braid, practise the leader knot
  • Fish grips and pliers for unhooking

Types of lures

Lures divide broadly into soft plastics and hard baits. Soft plastics are threaded onto a jig head, a hook with a weighted head; they are cheap and excellent for working the bottom, which makes them the most forgiving choice for beginners. Minnow-shaped hard baits swim with a side-to-side wobble just from reeling. Metal jigs and spoons are heavy, cast far and sink fast, so they suit fish that roam in schools. Rather than buying a bit of everything, start with soft plastics, a few jig head weights and one or two minnows, and learn what each does by using it.

  • Soft plastics on jig heads: cheap, good on the bottom
  • Minnows: swim with a steady retrieve
  • Metal jigs and spoons: distance and depth
  • Squid jigs: for squid and octopus

Casting and retrieving basics

When the lure hits the water, count one, two, three while the line pays out. When the line stops and goes slack, the lure is on the bottom; use that count to judge the depth, and next time count a little less to target the layer you want. The basic retrieves are a steady wind, lifting and dropping the rod tip so the lure darts up and sinks, and slowly dragging it along the bottom. Do not repeat one motion in one spot: vary direction, speed and depth to find a response, and if nothing happens, move on. Covering water is the core of lure fishing.

Hook safety

Lures often carry two or more hooks, frequently three-pointed trebles, so hook injuries are more common than in bait fishing. Before every cast, look behind and to the sides for people, and check overhead for power lines and branches. A cap and glasses protect your eyes from a lure that flies back. Grabbing a thrashing fish bare-handed is an easy way to bury a hook in your palm, so hold its jaw with grips and remove the hook with pliers. If a hook goes in deep, do not yank it out; get medical help.

  • Check behind, beside and overhead before casting
  • Wear a cap and glasses
  • Grips for the fish, pliers for the hook
  • Cover hooks when moving around

Snags and lost lures

Snagging a lure on rocks or weed is unavoidable in lure fishing. Hauling on the rod can snap it or send the lure flying back at you, so slacken the line, try a gentle pull from the opposite angle, and if it still will not come free, wrap the line around a cloth or a gloved hand, not bare skin, and pull slowly until it breaks. Over rough ground, use rigs that hide the hook point or retrieve a little above the bottom to lose fewer lures. Hooks and line left at the water's edge injure people and birds, so take broken line home with you.

Rules and common mistakes

Some species have closed seasons and minimum sizes, and some rivers and reservoirs ban fishing altogether. Rules change, so check official local and fisheries guidance before you go. In some countries, including Korea, bass and bluegill are designated invasive species and must never be moved or released alive into other waters. The usual beginner mistakes are reeling too fast, casting without knowing the bottom depth and refusing to leave one spot. Wherever you fish, wear a life jacket and stay off slippery rocks and breakwater tetrapods.

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